The garden-variety vehicle fire doesn’t get a lot of respect when we’re sitting around talking about modern-day fire-suppression problems. It appears the general public doesn’t have a lot of respect for vehicle fires either, because they (and our law enforcement brothers and sisters) will attack a well-involved vehicle with a 2-lb. dry chemical extinguisher. They also forget to give many details when making the 911 call, information such as, “It’s in the attached garage” or “It’s on the sixth floor of a parking garage.”
We all know what happens when we stop respecting things that can hurt us–snakes, certain breeds of dogs and crazy ex-girlfriends, to name a few: They sneak up behind you when you least expect them to and bite you where it hurts.
To ensure that won’t happen with vehicle fires, this month’s quick drill focuses on some of the basics of the standard hydrocarbon-powered vehicle fire.
Vehicle Dangers
One thing we can all agree on is that the auto industry is pushing technology along a lot faster than the fire service can keep up.
Another word for technology: complicated. Along with that complication comes a lot more danger than we faced a few years back. In addition to the normal flammable liquids, today’s vehicles use plastics and alternative fuels that increase the danger to firefighters.
Although I won’t cover plastics in this quick drill, all firefighters should be aware of their use. For several years now, the fire service has focused on the dangers of plastics used in building construction and interior furnishings. Those same plastics are also used in new car design, creating hotter-burning vehicle fires with increased smoke production. Therefore, the same attention we give to the use of full personal protective equipment (PPE) and SCBA at structure fires applies to vehicle fires.
When training on vehicle fires, be sure to cover the dangers associated with them, including but not limited to shock-absorbing bumpers on the front and rear, tires, air bags and gas-charged struts. Another serious concern: vehicle contents. Almost anything that can be used in our daily lives at home or work can be inside of a vehicle in some form or quantity–hazardous materials, firearms, explosives, medical waste, drug paraphernalia and anything else you can think of. So be ready.
Apparatus Positioning
One of the initial steps to a successful vehicle fire response is sound apparatus positioning. Our first priority is to use the apparatus to protect the crew from approaching traffic.
If you review the line-of-duty death statistics from the last several years, you probably won’t find a firefighter death attributed to a vehicle fire. But you will find a significant number of deaths attributed to operating on roadways. The two go hand in hand. Extreme caution must be used while operating at a vehicle fire along a roadway. Position accordingly.
The second priority related to positioning: minimizing the dangers caused by positioning downhill of the incident. Positioning downhill can cause fuel mixed with water to run toward, or under, the apparatus; the involved vehicle may also roll downhill, endangering your crew and/or apparatus.
If you’re forced to position downhill, move higher up on the crowned roadway to avoid running fuel, which will follow the curb line or ditch. As soon as possible, chock the wheels of the vehicle involved.
If you’re operating on a busy roadway, consider requesting an additional fire company to assist with blocking traffic. Always use law enforcement resources when possible to assist.
Handline Selection
Handline selection is also an important part of the vehicle fire response. If your apparatus is designed with a front bumper hosewell, that’s an excellent choice. You can also use the crosslays, but be sure to deploy them on the side away from traffic flow. Both of these choices provide good protection for the crews.
You’ll need about 25 feet of working hoseline to operate around a vehicle fire. Tip: Always position the apparatus at a minimum of 75 feet from the vehicle. If you respond on a $500,000 fire apparatus to a $500 car on fire and park less than 50 feet away, your apparatus becomes a serious–and expensive–exposure.
Doing the math, 75 feet away and 25 feet of hose needed means we must select a hoseline at least 100 feet in length. If you have a discharge on your apparatus that’s commonly used for vehicle fires, it should have at least 100—150 feet of 1 ½” or larger hose.
Most departments’ weapon of choice is the 1 ½” or 1 ¾” hose matched with a nozzle that will flow a minimum of 100 gpm. The line must be big enough to flow the 100 gpm and still be manageable for the crew. Remember: The key is the fire flow. Never approach a well-developed vehicle fire with less than 100 gpm.
Although we’ve seen a significant decline in the last 30 years in the use of the hose reel or “redline,” some departments still use it. The redline is a ¾” or 1″ hose that’s very light and features great mobility. The downside is its flow and stream reach. Redline with 200 feet of hose on the reel with a pump discharge pressure in the 175—200-psi range will only flow about 20 gpm. That’s only about 5 gpm more than a good garden hose.
Fire Attack
We now have our apparatus positioned to protect our crew from traffic. They’re in the appropriate level of PPE with SCBA in place. The handline is deployed with the ability to flow 100 gpm or greater.
Starting from a safe distance, use the reach of the stream to start knockdown and begin cooling. This reduces members’ exposure. Start your attack from outside the smoke if possible, at a 45-degree angle to the vehicle. By attacking at angles, members lessen their exposure to the front and rear bumpers and other pressurized components. Because bumpers absorb shock, they can blow off when heated.
Cool the lower third of the vehicle first. This area holds most of the dangerous components like fuel tanks, tires, etc. If you carry CAFS or Class A foam, drop it in the line. It will only enhance your attack. Note: If the car’s battery is still intact, consider isolating the battery to reduce the potential fuel flow via electronic fuel pumps.
If the vehicle has involvement under the hood in the engine compartment, you’ll need to make access. If the driver’s side door will open and the passenger compartment isn’t involved, try the hood release before you pry on the hood latch. This step could save you a lot of work later.
If the hood release doesn’t work, use a hood release tool or the fork end of your Halligan bar to grasp the hood-release cable running to the hood latch. Turn the cable until the latch releases.
An unresponsive hood latch at a vehicle fire can make you look pretty bad to the general public standing by watching the excitement. When the tricks mentioned above don’t work, go to the front corner of the hood. About a foot back, drive the pike end of your Halligan into the metal and then push the Halligan away from you, making a small flap of metal and an opening to apply a stream into. This allows you to cool the engine compartment without being in front of the car. You can also apply some water into the engine area from the fender well or by using a piercing nozzle.
Every once in a while, you’ll find a hood that just won’t give using any of these tactics. The last trick of the trade when accessing engine compartments is cutting.
Using your rotary saw with a metal cutting blade, make a small V-cut around the hood latch, allowing the hood to open. Another cutting technique is to make 45-degree angle cuts at the hinges on both sides, then fold the hood forward to expose the engine area.
There are dangers associated with cutting. Sparks from the saw can ignite fuel that has already been extinguished. So use caution when using this method and only use it when the simpler ways fail.
Remember: The amount of damage you cause while accessing the car should reflect how much damage will be done by the fire.
Final Considerations
Sometimes, you’ll encounter a vehicle fire where the fuel line has been burned off or the fuel tank has completely failed. These are often very difficult due to the fact that the hot metal will keep reigniting the fuel. Often, water alone won’t be effective. The use of a large dry chemical extinguisher in conjunction with the hoseline works wonders on these types of incidents. ARFF trucks use the same method on aircraft fires on a much larger scale.
Remember to open the trunk of the vehicle at some point to check for extension and possible dangerous cargo. You’d be surprised how many dead people are found in abandoned cars.
Note: For an outstanding downloadable program on vehicle fires by the Nassau County Fire Service Academy, go to www.firefighterclosecalls.com and click on the Safety and Survival downloads.
Drill 1: Getting Acquainted
Time: 60—90 minutes
Equipment: None
Step 1 Make arrangements to visit local new and used car lots.
Step 2 Have your crew look at different makes and models of vehicles. Look at fuel tank locations, hood-release mechanisms and latches. Review dangers faced at vehicle fires, such as bumpers and struts.
Step 3 Present a classroom session to your crew discussing vehicle fire operations.
Drill 2: Putting It All Together
Time: 1 hour
Equipment: Pumping apparatus and equipment; crew with full PPE
Step 1 Use a car from a local junkyard, or one previously obtained for an extrication drill. Position it in an open area where you can also position your apparatus and flow handlines.
Step 2 Use this time as an opportunity to do some training in context by allowing the crew to put all the pieces together, including apparatus positioning, PPE and SCBA, using pump operations and handline deployment. From start to finish, let them operate as if it’s a real incident.
Step 3 With the apparatus and crew ready, have them attack the simulated vehicle fire.
Step 4 Review with your crew their performance on basic vehicle fire tactics.
